» Making Your Own Pellets

binders

(34 posts)

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  1. sxviper04
    Member

    I need to make 5 ton for myself, then anything after that would like to sell to friends who have been hounding me. Have to get the mixture and moisture right first though. Had a free bag show up yesterday. Will try this weekend. Hope it works, will be about $260.00 cheaper to make a ton! Will post my results for you. How are you drying yours?

    Posted 2 years ago #
  2. keith
    Member

    has any one tried to use corn or vegie oil for a binder ??

    Posted 1 year ago #
  3. dave
    Member

    Yes, Ive tried veggie and corn oil. they both work but are very expensive for the amount you will need. Ive used corn starch, flour, ddg, and pellet binder. Pellet binder has most definitly worked the best. Belive me they arent paying me to say that. In fact I pay more to have it shipped than the stuff costs.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  4. sharon
    Member

    We are real new to this and have yet to see a pellet come out of our machine ...after six months.
    Winter is upon us and we really need to get some pellets made to run the central heating boiler.
    We have the machine.
    We have clean sawdust (wood shavings).
    All that happens is we get finer shavings and clogged dye.
    We have just reaslised that it is necessary to get the dye warm before adding the wood shavings but after 30 mins it is only slighly warm.
    Does flour actually do this for us?
    Can someone explain slowly step by step the way it works and what we need to do PLEASE.
    We imported the machine from China. It looks like a similar model already seen on this site.
    I have read about binders BUT we are in New Zealand. What can we try that will generate pellets soon. Importing the real deal could take a while with strict quarantine regulations in regard to plant materials in New Zealand.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  5. Sharon, have you reamed the die? What HP and size machine do you have? Make sure you do this. It helps eliminate clogging. Flour, sand and oil where originally used before reamimg. Basically what you are doing is cleaning and straightening each die hole. After you ream, tighten your rollers down onto the die and start the machine. Binder is used to aid in making pellets. The oils in it help to lubricate the sawdust as it is pressed through the die holes. After the pellets cool, it acts like starch and binds the pellet together. So mix the sawdust and the binder togther, usually in an electric cement mixer to save back ache. Add 1 cup to a 5 gallon pail. Your moisture content needs to be 10-15% on your sawdust. After your mxing is done (5-10 minutes)fill up a 5 gallon pail with it and this is what you will use to start to make you die hot. Slowly add your mixture to the hopper and keep the pressure on the rollers. By the time your finished with the pail you die should be up to temp and just keep adding mixture and fill your hopper.

    Slowly add the mixture to the hopper and

    Posted 1 year ago #
  6. sharon
    Member

    Thanks, finally have the right weather to try again and I used cornmeal as a binder. It has worked.
    I have approx two cups of precious pellets.
    It has clogged up again but I suspect more reaming may be required.
    Once the machine is warmed and running do I need to add binder to all the sawdust? We have a cement mixer right here so mixing isn't a problem but cornmeal isn't going to be cheap.
    I am feeling a lot more positive now thanks to your advice and the production of this small quantity.
    I put the machine on and had it running for 30 mins before I added the mix but am I right in thnking that this isn't necessary because the binder causes the heat?
    Thanks for your help. Sharon.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  7. Sharon...corn flour, soy, will also work. Be sure to add in cement mixer to entire batch. begin with a 5 gallon pail of sawdust from you cement mixer, slowly add it to the hopper. no need to wait 30 mins. As you add the sawdust the pressure and friction of pressing the mixture through the die will cause the temp to rise. After the pail is emptied,you should see steam by this point, you can continue adding sawdust. pellets should be produced at this point. Make sure you really tighten down the rollers and increase the rpms to compensate for the draw on the motor.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  8. sharon
    Member

    Will do thanks.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  9. sharon
    Member

    Think the sawdust may be too wet still but we saw a lot of nearly pellets today.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  10. Sharon, how are you doing down under???

    Posted 1 year ago #
  11. sharon
    Member

    Hi, gave up due to cold weather and wet sawdust but will get back into it when the weather is warmer. Will no doubt be back on this site then.
    If any of you pellet making experts are planning a NZ vacation let me know and we might actually get some pellets made.
    Cheers.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  12. mvukovich
    Member

    How many tons of pellets are you guys making with a bag of pelletbond? Has anybody found a better binder?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  13. Here's a post from MrAnderson:

    I figured I'd post an update for those of you who may care. I received my bag of Pellet Binder yesterday and couldn't wait to try it out. The wife headed over to the pellet operation to mix up a consistent 12% MC batch of saw dust while I mowed the lawn. She says it worked pretty good adding the wet to the dry to get the MC just right. I figured it would be a pain so it's good she doesn't mind mixing it up. After I got done mowing I headed over to giver her a hand. We decided to start off with a 4 bucket (5 gal buckets) of sawdust to about 2 oz (about a double shot glass) of pellet binder mix. We could immediatly tell the difference but the pellets still were quite up to our expectations. We then tried 3 buckets to about 2 oz. This worked better but it seemed like the sawdust was too wet even at 12% so we re-ran the pellets and they turned out pretty good. Wanting to see what would happen, we decided to run another batch through at 3 buckets to about 4 oz. We couldn't really tell much difference between this and the 3-2 mix we tried. I think our next experiment will be to try dryer sawdust, maybe around 10% or so.

    Bottom line is we are definatly pleased with the pellet binder and once we get our receipe down, I'm sure we'll be making the trip to Grand Ledge to pick up some more.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  14. jdj
    Member

    Hi: How much pellet binder is added to a 5 gal. bucket of sawdust? Also, is the pellet binder added to each and every 5 gallon bucket of sawdust?

    Thanks,
    jdj

    Posted 12 months ago #
  15. jdj
    Member

    Hi: If you take a 5 gallon bucket of fir sawdust and add 1 cup of pellet binder to it and mix it up, how many pellets will it make? Will the finished pellets fill a 5 gallon bucket 1/4 full, 1/2 full ??? I appreciate the info.

    Thanks,
    John

    Posted 12 months ago #
  16. sxviper04
    Member

    jdj, use about a cup per 5 gal bucket. a 5 gal bucket of pellets will weigh between 25-30 lbs depending on how compressed the are. viper

    Posted 11 months ago #
  17. jdj
    Member

    Hi Viper: Thanks for the quick response, can you or anyone else tell me , how many finished pellets a 5 gallon pail of sawdust will make? I do not mean how many individual pellets, but equate it to like 1/4 or 1/2 half of a 5 gallon bucket???

    Thank you!!!
    jdj

    Posted 11 months ago #
  18. If a full bucket of pellets should weigh 25-30lbs, (if they are dense enough for premium grade) then weigh your bucket of sawdust. If your sawdust weighs 15lbs before you make it into pellets, then you'll have 15lbs of pellets or about half a bucket.

    Posted 11 months ago #
  19. jdj
    Member

    Hi Admin: Thanks for the info and quick response.

    Take Care,
    John

    Posted 11 months ago #
  20. ericcc
    Member

    Hi everyone.

    I am newbie in this forum and new also in the world of pellet making. I have been following this thread for a week now and so thankful to find people with common interest. I do not have to elaborate my headaches in making pellets but I will just tell you what I have been doing to come up helplessly with good pellets.

    I bought a 22hp diesel engine powered pellet mill. My supplier said that I have to fine sand the die before I can make pellets which I did for many times. Infact, before using the machine to heat it up and after making a few pellets. My machine got clogged at least ten times which made me to laboriously remove it using nails. With this clogging, (for Sharon) I found a remedy of removing it easily by pouring my mixture of sand, flour and oil in the hopper. So, a STAND BY bucket of sanding materials is necessary. First, to heat up the machine before pouring sawdust and secondly, to remove clogged pellets.

    My big problem lies on the pellet moisture. There is no consistency in the raw materials in this hobby. Sawdust comes too wet or too dry. Too dry sawdust, will not get into the dye, it stays in the hopper. High MC sawdust, you get powder. My Chinese supplier insists that I need not use binder. But I guess it is the hard way of making pellets. Besides, I understand from this forum that I need to lube the dye and to lengthen my usage of it.

    Guys, is there anyway you can help me with binder? Also, most of my pellets are kind of crumbly or short or if not powdery. I am in the Philippines, and for this hobby... it is economically unwise for me to invest in importing binders to make pellets. Instead, I am looking around for some starch or any other alternative to act as binder. Any help from you pellet makers will greatly be appreciated.

    To Mr. Anderson, I hope you can tell me the step by step method of using starch. I am in no position of buying pellet binder from US. Starch I understand to activate its adhesiveness must be heated up in water first.
    Thanks a lot pellet makers.

    ericcc

    Posted 11 months ago #
  21. ericcc,

    Please read more of the forum. If you do, you will see that it is not good to use a sand and flour mixture through your equipment. You actually need to use a solid carbide reamer ( http://www.makeyourownpellets.com/accessories/solid-carbide-reamer-letter-b ) to remove imperfections from your die holes. When you get a clog you should use an oil to help soften the biomass in your die. Simply pour in some veg. oil in the clogged die. Also, powdery pellets actually is a sign of too little moisture. And finally, there is a zerk fitting for grease on the underside of main housing,that feeds grease to the main bearing which you should grease often. I have tried using starch but was not successful. To be honest I didn't continue to experiment with it when I had success with Pellet Binder. ( http://www.makeyourownpellets.com/pellet-binder )

    Admin

    Posted 11 months ago #
  22. MrAnderson41
    Member

    ericcc,

    I'm affraid that I can't help you with using starch either. I use the Pellet Binder product sold through this website. So far this has been the best binder I've tried. I know that you can use things such as Soy Beans, Dried Distillers Grain, etc. but the Pellet Binder is the best I know of.

    Posted 11 months ago #
  23. ericcc
    Member

    Hi admin & Mr. Anderson,

    I appreciate your comments on my inquiry to pellet binders. I actually desperate to go full swing on this project. that makes me need all the more the pellet binder that you are telling me. But like I said, I am on the side of the globe and makes things impossiblle for me to buy from your end considering the cost. As you notice, I am looking for alternatives. The other day I was able to make some pellets. I found out the reasson why my pellets are short of length. Having thoughts that it might get clogged again, my mind tells me that I have to por sawdust gradually to avoid clogging. But it is the otherway around. You need to pour at one time a bucketful of sawdust to come up with lengthy pellets. I am glad I made some but to satisfy me, I had the sawdust run through the pellet mill not only once but sometimes thrice to come up with good ones. ( many times I saw in youtube that they only make one run through, Is it really that easy? just ones?)

    I tried starch, soybeans, corn oil, even paraffin and last time I used bentonite. I had some excellent pellet output with the use of bentonite powder. However, considering the cost again, I dont think it is wise. I will look for a reamer as soon as possible. I think that will help a lot.

    More power and thanks for taking time.

    ericcc

    Posted 11 months ago #
  24. reclaimed fuel
    Member

    eric-what about modified corn starch-"thick it" its expensive but works. or find a food grade binder for fish or animal feed at a farm store.

    Posted 11 months ago #
  25. wayne
    Member

    eric, try rice, it is full of starch , cheap and plentiful where you are. Sugar cane may also be a good binder. Let us know what entually works. I'll bet a cup or two of rice per 5 gallon bucket will do the trick.

    Posted 11 months ago #
  26. ericcc
    Member

    Hi there everyone, to admin, thanks for this forum. Apt until now, I am not satisfied with my pellet making. The last time I tried making pellets again, I used bentonite. I made a few pellets but still not convinced that Im doing the right thing. I strongly am convince that in pellet making, one passing through of sawdust material is enough to produce good pellet. Pls tell me if you agree with me. Because, out of desperation, what I did was pass and run through at least 3 times on my machine before I could get some pellets. I believe this is not right. I made some with the use of bentonite only to discover that although it is good pellet, I encountered problem with its very slow burning and plentuful unbroken ash.

    to reclaimed fuel, man I do not have any idea how this starch is modified. I only got myself a handful of corn starch and i thought that's it. i need to find a modified starch near me. Also, wayne.. indeed rice is plentyful here in my place..modified rice starch? i do not know... will inform you pellet makers what comes up next. im happy though with the use of bentonite, except for slow burning and hard to light pellets plus the plentiful unbroken ash. Thanks and hasta la vista.

    Posted 10 months ago #
  27. ericcc

    exacly what kind of sawdust are you using to make pellets? Oak, Maple, black walnut, mahogany, pine etc. Each acts differently when trying to make pellets. Also the kind of sawdust matters too. because there is no one kind, there are planner shavings, chips, sawdust from an actual rip saw, powder from a sander, etc. This makes a big difference as well. That's why no matter what kind of sawdust you have, it's best to run it through a Hammer mill to achieve consistency in size and shape.

    Posted 10 months ago #
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    Posted 10 months ago #
  29. ericcc
    Member

    hi admin,

    Yeah, I forgot to mention what kind of sawdust I am using. I have a vast source of mahogany sawdust from a nearby sawmill. infact, it is that same sawmill that gave me interest to invest in pellet mill. My dye has 6mm holes in it. I remember you mentioned about reaming it with .239 carbide reamer file? Im going to get one for myself today. I have not given up yet on this venture... need to make pellets. thanks.

    Posted 10 months ago #
  30. ericcc,

    Mahogany is excellent to make pellets with! that's what I use from a local cabinet maker. Very oily wood and just beautifull dense and shiny hard pellets when using Pellet Binder. Sorry we can't help you get some downunder!
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    Posted 10 months ago #

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